Materials: ¼ lb. paper pulp (like Celluclay)
1 2/3 cup water
petroleum jelly
Equipment: Plastic face form
wax paper or heavy duty aluminum foil
1qt. freezer bag
paper towels
dust mask
1)Spread wax paper or foil onto your work-surface and place the face form on top.
2) Place the dry paper pulp into a freezer bag, and slowly pour 1 1/3 cup of water into the bag.
(Always wear a dust mask when handling dry paper pulp, the little particles love
to float everywhere, especially when you're adding water to it) Seal the bag,
and knead the water into the pulp until there are no dry spots or lumps and it has a clay-like consistency. Add water as needed.
3) Fold a paper towel and use it to spread petroleum jelly onto the face form, in a relatively thin, even layer. Take a some paper pulp and kneed and roll it into a ball with your hands ( it's going to be very messy, so wear gloves if want to), this will further soften the paper clay.
4) Using your fingers, spread the paper pulp onto the face form evenly. The layer should be no more than about ¼ in. thick and no less than 3/16 in. thick for stability and shortened drying time. (Any thicker than ¼ in. and you run the risk of mold growth, because of the increased drying time.) Use wet fingers to smooth the pulp down. Allow the mask to dry for 24 hours. Remove the mask from the face form to allow the back of the mask to dry.
5) After this you can do just about anything you want to the mask. If you want the mask to be smoother, either apply spackle to the front and back of the mask, and sand with 80 grit sand paper, finishing with 120 grit; or just sand the mask itself. You can also apply a gesso ground before painting. The fastest and cheapest way to seal a mask is to use a trick polymer clay artists use: Future Floor acrylic finish. This will make your mask sweat- and water-proof. To tint the clay itself, add powdered pigment to the dry pulp, mixing them well before adding water.
Post written by MoonRavenArts
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